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Wednesday, April 29, 2009

2007 Friulano (Sans Tocai)

Friulano, a white grape variety in north eastern Italy where Pinot Grigio is king, is a relative of the better known varietal Sauvignon Blanc. It usually makes a very simple but pleasant white wine. Although a fair amount of the wine made from Friulano goes into jug wines, there are also wines made from this grape that are far more interesting than much of the Pinot Grigio made in the same areas. Until recently, in this part of the world, this grape was known as Tocai Friulano. Hungary, however, has successfully made their case that the word Tocai is too easily confused with their Tokaji (Tokay) wines made from the grape Furmint, and as of April 2008, only Friulano can appear on the label of Italian wines. This ruling affects other countries as well, but I would have to digress even further and at this point I would rather just go straight to the wine at hand.

Aziendo Agricola Branko, owned by Igor Erzetic, is located in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in north east Italy. The property is a modest 4-6 hectares (9-14 acres) and produces exceptional wines. (The Pinot Grigio has earned the Tre Bicchieri Award from Gambero Rosso) The wine at the moment, however, is their Friulano. It is fermented and aged for seven months in stainless steel (90%) and fermented and aged for seven months in French oak barrels(10%).

Tasting notes: The wine has a clear pale straw color. The nose smells of melon (cantaloupe), with a hint of peach, almond, and coconut; minerals play a large role as well. Spicy and viscous on the palette, the richness and fruitiness is balanced quite nicely with sharp acidity. Moderate to long finish. This wine would be great as a starter with cheeses and/or prosciutto wrapped melon. It would even hold its own with some pork and chicken dishes. I would rate this wine Good+. Buy again: Yes.

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